Archery Arm Guard Pattern: How to Choose or Make the Right One

Updated November 2026

An archery arm guard pattern is a template that shows you how to cut and shape a forearm guard so it covers the inside of your bow arm, stays put during the shot, and protects you from string slap. Whether you plan to make your own guard from leather or simply want to understand what a good fit looks like before you buy, this guide walks you through measuring, cutting, shaping and testing a pattern. By the end, you will have a clear sense of the dimensions that matter and the steps that turn a flat piece of material into a guard that works on the range.

What an Arm Guard Does and Why the Pattern Matters

An arm guard, sometimes called a bracer, sits on the forearm of your bow arm. Its job is to take the hit when the bowstring snaps forward after release, and to keep loose sleeves out of the string path. A guard that is too short leaves skin exposed at the wrist. A guard that is too long or too wide digs into the forearm, rides up during the draw or flops around. The pattern controls all of this because it sets the length, the width at each point along the arm and the curve that wraps the forearm. Get the pattern right and the finished guard sits low, stays flat and does its job without distracting you.

Shopping for one? See our guide: 4 Best Archery Leather Arm Guard Options for Target Archers (2026).

Before You Start: Tools and Materials

You do not need a shop to work from a pattern, but a few basics make the process much more accurate.

• A flexible measuring tape and a ruler with clear millimeter or 1/16-inch markings
• Heavy paper, poster board or thin cardboard for the test pattern
• A pencil, a straightedge and a pair of sharp scissors or a utility knife
• For the final guard: veg-tanned or other firm leather, a cutting mat, a rotary cutter or sharp knife, and a leather punch
• Stitching thread or rivets, a stitching awl or drill, and contact cement or a leather-safe adhesive if you are laminating layers
• A pencil or chalk to mark the outline, and a ruler for square edges

Work on paper first. Paper is cheap, easy to fold and quick to trim, and it lets you find problems before you spend time on leather that cannot be uncut.

Step 1: Measure Your Forearm Correctly

Start with the measurements that define the shape of the guard. Take them with your bow arm relaxed and slightly bent, roughly in the position you hold it at full draw, because the forearm changes shape when you tense it.

The Key Measurements

• Wrist circumference: measure around the wrist bone to the base of the hand. This sets the narrow end of the guard.
• Mid-forearm circumference: measure around the thickest part of the forearm, usually about a third of the way up from the wrist. This is the widest point of the guard.
• Guard length: measure from the base of the wrist to a point just below the elbow crease. Most target archers fit a guard that ends about 2 to 3 inches below the crease, but the exact length depends on where your sleeve sits and how far you draw.
• Outside-to-inside span: measure across the top of the forearm from the outer edge to the inner edge where the guard will sit, so you know how far the material must wrap.

Record each number in millimeters or inches, and label which point on the arm it belongs to. Measure twice. A difference of 5 mm at the wrist can change how the guard sits more than you expect.

Step 2: Draw the Basic Outline on Paper

Lay your paper flat and draw a centerline running the full length of the guard. Mark your length along this line. At the top end, draw a line across the paper that matches your mid-forearm half-width, and at the bottom end draw a line matching your wrist half-width. Connect the sides with gentle curves rather than straight lines, because the forearm is rounded and a straight-edged pattern will bunch.

Shaping the Curves

The top edge of the guard, nearest the elbow, usually follows a shallow curve so it does not press into the inside of the arm. The bottom edge, near the wrist, can be narrower and slightly squared off. Add a small taper where the guard would sit over the bony point of the wrist. Keep the sides smooth. Sharp corners catch sleeves and can dig in during release.

Step 3: Build and Test a Paper Template

Cut out your outline and wrap it around your forearm. Use tape or a few small pins to hold the ends together. Check the following:

1. The guard covers the full inside of the forearm where the string would hit.
2. The bottom edge sits above the wrist bone without pressing on it.
3. The top edge does not cut into the crook of the elbow when your arm is relaxed.
4. The guard stays centered when you flex your forearm and when you make a mock draw.
5. You can close and open your hand without the paper pulling or buckling.

Make adjustments on the paper, then trace the final version. If the guard is too tight at the mid-forearm, widen that section by a few millimeters and retest. Repeat until the paper sits comfortably through a few practice draws.

Step 4: Transfer the Pattern to Leather

Once the paper pattern fits, trace it onto the back side of your leather. Use a sharp pencil or a scratch awl and keep the pattern flat against the leather. Mark any fastening points, such as lace holes or strap slots, at this stage. Keep the pattern away from the edges of the hide where the material is thinner and less consistent.

Cutting and Edge Work

Cut along the traced line with a sharp knife or rotary cutter, using a straightedge for the straight sections and steady, continuous strokes on the curves. Bevel or burnish the edges after cutting so they do not fray or snag fabric. Punch your fastening holes evenly spaced and consistent in size so the strap or lacing tensions the guard evenly.

Step 5: Fasten the Guard and Check Fit

Most homemade guards use a strap, lacing or a combination. Fasten the guard snugly enough that it does not rotate, but leave room for your forearm to flex. Put the guard on, shoot a few arrows at close range and watch how it moves. A well-fitting guard stays put through the entire shot cycle.

Tips and Common Mistakes

• Measuring a relaxed arm only. Measure again with the arm in shooting position. The forearm often swells slightly under tension.
• Making the guard too long. Extra length tends to ride up into the elbow crease and restrict the draw.
• Skipping the paper test. Cutting leather straight from a rough guess wastes material and time.
• Using a pattern drawn with straight sides. Curved edges sit much better on a rounded forearm.
• Cutting too close to the hide edge. Thin or stretched edges will lose shape and may tear at the lacing holes.
• Fastening too tightly. A guard that cuts off circulation or stops you from closing your hand is a problem; loosen the strap.

Recommended gear

A few supplies make the pattern process easier and produce a cleaner finished guard.

• Veg-tanned leather sheet: firm, takes a clean edge and holds its curve better than soft hides for arm guards. View on Amazon
• Rotary leather cutter: gives smooth, consistent curves on pattern lines, especially for longer guards. View on Amazon
• Leather punch set: produces even lacing holes that keep fastening tension uniform. View on Amazon
• Edge beveler: rounds the cut edges so they will not snag sleeves or fray over time. View on Amazon

Further Reading

If you are looking at ready-made options as well as making your own, you may want to compare the options in Archery Arm Guard Pattern Free: How to Make Your Own Step by Step and Archery Arm Guard DIY: Make Your Own in 6 Steps (Beginner Guide). For leather-specific guidance, see Archery Arm Guard Leather Pattern: A Practical Guide (2026), and for sizing questions, Long Archery Arm Guard: How to Choose, Fit and Use One Properly covers the fit issues that matter most for longer guards.

FAQ

What is the most important measurement for an arm guard pattern?

The mid-forearm circumference matters most, because it sets the width at the widest point of the guard. Length and the wrist measurement come next.

Should I make the pattern from paper before cutting leather?

Yes. A paper template lets you test the fit on your own arm and correct mistakes without wasting material.

How far should the guard extend up the forearm?

Many archers end the guard a few inches below the elbow crease, but the right length depends on your draw and sleeve. Test it with a mock draw before you finalize.

Can I use one pattern for both arms?

Generally no. The bow arm is the one that needs the guard, so you only make one. If you shoot left-handed, the pattern is simply mirrored for the other arm.

What leather works best for a homemade guard?

Firm, vegetable-tanned leather is the usual choice. It holds its curve, cuts cleanly and takes edge finishing well.

Why does my guard keep sliding down my arm?

The most common causes are a pattern that is too wide at the wrist, a strap that is too loose, or a top edge that is not curved enough. Recheck the pattern and fastening.

Is a guard needed for every shooting style?

Most target archers wear one, but if you have concerns about string contact or skin sensitivity, a qualified archery coach or pro shop can advise on the right setup for you.

Conclusion

A good archery arm guard pattern starts with accurate measurements and a smooth, curved outline that suits your forearm. Test it on paper, transfer it carefully to leather, and fasten the guard so it stays put without restricting your hand or draw. Take your time with the fit, and the finished guard will protect your arm and stay out of your way on the line.

Related reading

• Women's Archery Arm Guard: How to Choose and Fit One Properly

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